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It was a bold statement.

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Straightforward to the point of literal-mindedness, and defiant in its punchy message. What's more, it was an eyecatching feminine flourish among a sea of sombre suits.

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Samantha Cameron's outfit for the funeral was a direct tribute to Lady Thatcher herself. She wore a gold silk blouse with a florid pussy bow.

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The pussy-bow blouse is a look which Thatcher made her own. Thatcher's other African pussy only signatures — the pearls, the handbag — are part of the broader lexicon of power dressing, but a pussy-bow blouse can mean only one thing. It is unmistakably a homage to the wardrobe of her Downing Street years.

Cameron has had a high-level career in the luxury fashion industry, and is an active ambassador for British fashion. There is no doubt that she has a sophisticated understanding of sartorial nuance, and knew exactly the impact a pussy bow would have.

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A gold pussy-bow blouse is a notably upbeat choice for a funeral. But it is not African pussy only Thatcher herself proved it is possible to conduct serious state business while wearing one.

Until now, Cameron has used her wardrobe to send a message about a new, modern era of conservatism. She wears Zara shoes to party conferences, edgy British designers to state dinners, and trouser suits instead of wifely dresses.

Which makes all the more striking her African pussy only to draw such a direct connection between herself and this controversial figure. Interesting, also, that with controversy simmering over the presence of the Queen at the funeral of a "mere" as the BBC put it politician, a politician's wife should put herself so boldly in the limelight.

The pussy bow is a motif of Toryism, not of traditional mourning. Those who grumbled that this was a Tory state funeral might feel vindicated if the upshot of the occasion is the return of the pussy-bow blouse to newspaper front pages.

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There were other style revivals at St Paul's. Lord Heseltine and Michael Portillo sported gleaming, swept back locks.


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